The doorman lets me through the double glass doors without uttering a word, and, frankly, I wonder if he’s on
his job. Shouldn’t he run up to welcome me, bow,
or just acknowledge my presence in some gracious
way? What I soon discover about Japanese hotels—and
will come to appreciate—is their hands-off approach to hospitality. The Kitano offers this type of quiet graciousness.

The humble spirit exuded by the Kitano staff extends to the hotel’s physical style: subdued and elegant. The lobby is part of a huge two-story open atrium set to a calming light, earth-toned color scheme. There’s extensive use of rich mahogany woodwork and opulent marble flooring. The

The Suite: A+
In a city where hotel suites are typically tiny—even the luxury ones—it’s a relief to stay in a Kitano suite with its overwhelming expansiveness. I’m on the 17th floor, far from the annoying jackhammers and honking horns and the vistas from these windows are breathtaking. The picture-perfect view of the Empire State Building is a photographer’s dream. The suite’s calming earth-toned color palette and tightly upholstered furnishings add to the hotel’s regal air. In the living room there’s a wet bar and a television that magically pops out of its mahogany enclosure by remote control. On the bar are the preparations for making your own detoxifying green-tea concoction. (Isn’t it Dr. Perricone who swears by the stuff, saying if you were to change from coffee to green tea each morning you could easily lose 10 pounds in just one month?)

Heavy louvered mahogany French doors lead to the beautiful bedroom with a king-size bed doused
in luxury linens and fine bedding juxtaposed against soft, silk-covered walls. At the foot of the bed
is another of those wonderful television cabinets that rises and falls with the push of a button. It appears to be stuck in the ‘up’ position, so I call down to see what can be done. Immediately, an engineer arrives to assess the situation and says he’ll have to come back with some tools. The televisions in the suite are in dire need of the upgrade that general manager Hans Basse says is
part of their renovation plans.

The bedroom’s adjacent walk-in closet is ideal for unloading the Louis Vuitton trunks and hanging
your holiday wardrobe. There are three terry robes and slippers anxiously awaiting your service and
a safe for stashing your David Orgell jewelry.

The Bathroom: A+

The Restaurants

The Hakubai: - A
I meet Bruce Migliaccio, chief operating officer of Giorgio Armani, and his charming date, Sandy Castro, in the lobby of the Kitano. We can’t decide where to have dinner and instead opt for some authentic Kaiseki Japanese formal cuisine right here at the Hakubai restaurant.
The Hakubai seats 84 in the main restaurant, with additional space in the three tatami rooms. We’re seated at a simple table with the type of lighting usually reserved for delicatessens and cafeterias.
To call it over-lit would be an understatement. Fortunately, this initial shock to our aesthetic senses soon dims under the offerings that make their way past our lips.

Two Kaiseki prix-fixe choices are on the menu: one for $150, the other for $80. I order the $80 version
and pray that the portions aren’t too small. It’s 10 p.m. and I haven’t eaten a thing since lunch, so I’m famished. The Kaiseki menu simply means you’re about to enjoy the best and freshest foods from
the mountains and the sea, served up in a most exquisite manner. Kaiseki means ‘warmed stone.’ Zen priests would place these warmed stones on their stomachs to help alleviate their hunger—at least psychologically.

Are we ready to begin? The Kaiseki dinner comprises ten courses and lasts about three nicely paced hours. Here’s the delicious countdown: 1. We start with an appetizer of minced young fish and vegetables served on delicate hand-painted pottery; 2. Next up, a wonderful light soup in a lacquer bowl containing a tofu that is made right here at Hakubai; 3. A rare lacquer box is brought out, and inside, a delectable sashimi (when you’re here, a morsel of fugu [blowfish], considered one of Japan’s greatest delicacies—but one that I would personally steer clear of—might be served). 4. Hassun follows: an array of such delicacies as fish, bamboo shoot sushi and asparagus rolled with salmon; Then, 5. A simmered dish with vegetables and more fresh fish; 6. A succulent teriyaki filet mignon steak; 7. Aizakana, a selection of tidbits like bean curd, sea urchin and ginger. Wait,
there’s still more! 8. A vinegar dish of clams dressed in miso is followed by 9. A course of rice and pickles; and 10. Refreshing orange slices or a light gelatin-based dessert completes the memorable meal. While the food train seems to last forever, the portions are small and delicate enough to enjoy without feeling uncomfortable. The presentation and service of the night’s offerings are as delightful as the masterful cuisine. It is extraordinary. I will be sure to come back here for dinner next time I’m in New York. Hakubai is open daily for lunch from 11:45 to 2:30; dinner from 6 to 10.

The Garden Café - A