The Mandarin Oriental San Francisco

Summer in Los Angeles. I was feeling edgy and uneasy. Maybe it was the heat. When Lady Luck presented an opportunity to return to my old stomping grounds, I took it; San Francisco, home of poets and writers. Like Dashiel Hammett. It’s where he penned The Maltese Falcon. The film featured Bogart as Detective Phillip Marlowe. A real class act.
These things always start with a dame. I eased back and opened the in-flight magazine. And there she was: Isabella Rosellini, featured in an ad for the The Mandarin Oriental. The very hotel we were going to review. Hollywood royalty with a first-class pedigree.
“Here’s looking at you, kid.” I thought. After all, she is the daughter of Ingrid Bergman, Ilsa to Bogart’s Sam in Casablanca "Yeah, it’s gonna be a swell ride.”

The Entrance
Our arrival from the airport was surprisingly quick, about 20 minutes. The Mandarin Oriental is tucked neatly away in the heart of the downtown financial district. And by tucked away I mean perched atop a spectacular building in San Francisco, making for the kind of spectacular views the other posh hotels crowded on and around Nob Hill only dream of. Most things worth seeing are within walking distance and the Cable Car is a block away. Nice.

The simple elegance of the almost hidden entrance belied the 5-Star experience waiting inside. The initial greeting from the immaculately uniformed Valet, Porter and Doorman, waltzed right through hospitality and out the other side: Genuine Personal Attention.
No pretense.

The hotel’s architecture, general layout and design is fascinating to behold given that the lobby and adjoining lounge are oddly-shaped, almost jammed into the corner of the building. The lobby is open, spacious and luxurious, even the slab of marble framing the concierge desk is flawless. The Oriental decor and furnishings combined with the unique layout left me with the impression that somebody, somewhere got something very right.
We we’re greeted by Guan Yin, the Chinese Goddess of Mercy. It’s unusual to find a major Deity sharing the lobby of a hotel with you. But there she was, kindly and beneficently bestowing a blessing upon us the moment we crossed the threshold. Nice way to start
the journey.

We we’re also greeted by Robert Lowe (I know what you’re thinking, different chap altogether) the Director of Sales and Marketing, who showed us to our room. If you have an opportunity to introduce yourself to Mr. Lowe, by all means take it. The world could use a few more Robert Lowe’s.

The Mandarin Oriental is apart of the third tallest building in San Francisco and boasts two towers with a glass-enclosed sky-bridge connecting on 9 of the 11 floors. As we ascended above the city, to the 36th floor, we were treated to a brief history of the Mandarin Oriental, and by way of Robert and his personality, introduced to the overall attitude and commitment of the staff.

The Bedroom
The Golden Gate Mandarin King Room is everything the name implies. Although it took a while to actually see the room for greeting us as the door opened was a panoramic view of San Francisco. Quite a view considering it encompasses the entire Bay Area: Presidio, Fort Mason, Mt. Tamalpias, Alcatraz Island, Fisherman’s Wharf, Grace Cathedral atop Nob Hill, Coit Tower, and Treasure Island.

Asian inspired décor enhanced the streamlined feng shui feel and privacy of the room. Its elegant and cozy furnishings-a sumptuous bed with Egyptian cotton sheets and a feathered silk bedspread-are accented by an exotic hand-painted Asian silk screen, spicy silk drapes and the famous “baby lamp” perched next to the bed. Other unique touches include a complimentary welcome jasmine tea service and children’s toys. The room’s standard features include 3 2-line telephones (with fax hookups), binoculars, color television with video access and a brilliant mini-bar. I highly recommend the 24-hour room service; the clam chowder and in-house smoked salmon are delectable.

The Bathroom
If I could give you one reason to go to the Mandarin Oriental, other than the restaurant, more on that later, it would be for the bathroom. When I tell you I was stunned, I am being completely honest. The polished marble bathroom features a tub-to-ceiling window. Let me say that my mouth was agape at the view from the bedroom but when I walked through that door it was literally on the floor. I recently had a phone call from a journalist who was doing a story on the top bathrooms in the country, and he asked me which would I choose. I have stayed in the world’s most exquisite hotels but this bathroom rivals my bathroom’s view in Prien, Germany and that one overlooked the base of the Swiss Alps. It is the sort of experience where you have to see it to believe it.

There is a spacious vanity area and large shower (with a towering glass door). A “bath menu” rests on the edge of the deep-soaking tub. Pamper yourself with such items as rose petals and aromatherapy treatments that housekeeping prepares in a drawn bath. It is a lavish service that I look forward to trying upon my return.

Silks Restaurant
Located on the second floor, Silks should be located higher up in the building and closer to heaven because that is exactly what we experienced! This award-winning restaurant is San Francisco’s best-kept secret. In a city filled with a solid roster of world-class chefs, restaurants, bistros and their respective cuisines, Executive Sous Chef Jack Stevenson has created something truly unbelievable. Speaking without fear of contradiction, this is the most supremely satisfying dining I have ever experienced.

Chef Stevenson is a Titan in every sense of the word. Tall, broad and strikingly handsome in his immaculate white coat, he exudes a confidence and passion that is very much evident in the food he prepares.

After introducing himself, we were treated to a dish he was thinking about adding to the menu by prefacing, “it was lunch and I was hungry for some eggs. I had some truffles lying around and thought, ‘What would I like to eat?’” What was born out of Chef Stevenson’s peckishness now sat before us: A truffle omelet topped with Hudson Valley foie gras in a sauce of truffle butter with cherry reduction and frosted with shaved truffles. My reaction after the first bite cannot be printed. Suffice it to say that had my mother been dining with us, she would have slapped me. Chef Stevenson laughed his easy laugh, “It’s good, isn’t it?.” I was, for the first time in my life, speechless.

What followed was a parade of unexpected genius: Tart of Duck Confit, Almond Bisque, Sweet-Corn Asiago Polenta, Corn Crusted Sea Bass and my favorite of the night, Crisp Cherry Glazed Duck Breast.

Our waiter, Edwin, was only surpassed in his knowledge of wines, by his congenial wit and charm. He poured perfect parings of wine and port, specially selected to heighten each course in a well-choreographed culinary dance.

I probably should not go into the dessert selections for fear of weeping in public, but to omit Pastry Chef Suzanne Lafleur’s magic would be unconscionable. Four words: Malted Milk Chocolate Mousse. Okay, eight words: Warm Blueberry-Peach Financier.

What struck me most was the ability of Chef’s Stevenson and Lafleur to put together such original, bold combinations, in a world filled with Pan-Asian/Cal fusion cuisine. The menu is never intimidating or confusing. The courses melted seamlessly together with nothing overpowering or screaming for attention. The restaurant itself was intimate, comfortable and superbly decorated. This fact, coupled with the impeccable staff, made for a dinner that was simply put: AMAZING!

The most heart rendering travesty: the restaurant Silks is, quite literally, the best-kept secret in San Francisco as no one knows about it. Oh sure, there are some locals and hardcore “foodies” but with the exception of us and one other couple, the place was empty. They have their fair share of repeat customers but the financial district empties at the close of business, becoming a ghost town. Silks remains an undiscovered gem most nights. We’re hoping to change that. And so is the Mandarin Oriental.

On our comprehensive tour of the hotel, Rob Lowe (fun to say that) told us of the planned expansion and renovation for 2004. To enhance the well-deserved Mobil 5-Star rating, the Mandarin Oriental is adding Spa Suites.

What makes the Mandarin Oriental so unique is, well, its uniqueness. Each of the dozen or so Mandarin Oriental Hotels, in such exotic locations as Geneva, Manila, Macau, Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta, take advantage of the local flavorings, customs and influences when decorating, furnishing and planning the overall theme of the hotel. Rather than a carbon-copy version of “the perfect hotel” stamped across the globe, one can experience the unique location surrounded in extreme comfort and luxury simply by checking in to a Mandarin Oriental.

In San Francisco, the influence is the world famous Chinatown, distinguished by it’s exotic Asian flair. Also unique to the city is Fisherman’s Wharf, home of sourdough bread, Ghirardelli chocolate and birthplace of cioppino. This geographic opportunity is not lost on Silk’s Chef Stevenson who offers his idea of San Francisco Style Cioppino, not available anywhere else in the world.

Located within walking distance, and walking in San Francisco is one of my singular joys in life, are the city’s other famous areas: North Beach, Union Square and Nob Hill. The Mandarin Oriental’s location provides ideal access to shopping, incredible theaters and galleries and quick, easy access to Fisherman’s Wharf via the famous Cable Cars. From there you can hop a ferry to Alcatraz, (book a week in advance to avoid disappointment. It’s a popular and surprisingly interesting destination) Sausalito or cruise the Bay. Also available are limousine trips to Sonoma and Napa Valleys, where you can sample ample wines and varieties without fear of overdoing it. World-class golf and fishing are also favorite respites for the business traveler.

I would highly recommend visiting their web site for a comprehensive list of amenities. Some of which include a fitness center with state-of-the-art equipment, “tasteful amenities for canine visitors” - complimentary house-made dog food and walking services, exotic meeting facilities accommodating up to 100 people for a banquet, a business center which provides secretarial services, personal computers and more, and the Mandarin Oriental’s famous Asian afternoon tea. Served daily you can choose from seven different teas, served in a traditional cast-iron teapot complete with a bento box of superb cuisine. The list
goes on.

Now, back to that bathtub, I simply cannot let it go. We saw the city and took a long brisk walk around Chinatown and the Wharf. Okay, I’ll confess, I forced my patient significant other to power shop and he was exhausted. He isn’t one who usually enjoys long, luxurious soaks, something about pruned fingertips doesn’t appeal to him but apparently the extras offered were too exquisite to pass up. I could hear him through the tightly shut big bathroom door, the Organic Minerals Bath or the Zen Blend Bath Teas? Judging from his hour-long respite, I’ll bet instead he simply rested his head back on that terry-cloth bathtub pillow and gazed across the lights of the city.

“Here’s looking at you, kid.”

Elizabeth Saab
Dean McCreary
Style Director