The Post Ranch Inn
Tree House Room $695.


On numerous occasions I’d wanted to, but never made the winding drive from Los Angeles to Big Sur along California coast's Hiway 1, so when the opportunity to review the Post Ranch Inn arose, it was the perfect opportunity to load the Rover and take in the Golden State.

The drive was truly unbelievable. The wildflowers overflowed onto the winding road and the grasses that clung to the hillsides were still green from the spring rains. The ocean is a deep, deep blue and there are things I didn’t know existed in California like black sand beaches, waterfalls, and close to the famous Hearst Castle, strips of the beach devoted to literally thousands of elephant seals. What a sight it was to see the entire beach covered with all of these huge sea creatures, snuggling up to each other, basking in the sun. As one admittedly jaded by man’s luxury creations - architecture, art, fashion, and automobiles - it was refreshing to feel excited by what God has done for us. I felt spiritually recharged by this road trip.

The Post Ranch Inn
As the primary researcher for the luxury properties The Style Group chooses to review, I was familiar with all of the accolades bestowed upon the Post Ranch Inn. Kudos extended on the short list include: #1 Top Hotel in North America and tied for #1 Top Hotel for ‘The Best of The Best in the World’on the Conde Nast Traveler Reader’s Choice Awards for Best Overall of the World Resorts, Hotels, Cruise Lines and Islands; and Travel + Leisure's #1 small hotel in the U.S. and selected as their #3 hotel with a spa in the U.S.–Some pretty powerful testimonials.

With cachet, come expectations, so when the winding driveway that leads to the hotel from the main highway led us to a rather simple, lackluster reception building, I was disappointed. Not only that, but I was dumbfounded by the lack of signage to clearly direct us to the check-in area. I asked two guests of the hotel for directions to the reception area before finding it. The lobby is not luxurious by any means and the greeting is laid-back and again, simple. We quickly checked in and without much fanfare or any kind of orientation, loaded into a pretty chic shuttle, a brand-new Lexus RX300 that careened up a steep road to our room, a Tree House named “Brazil”. I admit I had my “critics” hat on when I came here. After all, this had to be one impeccable property for absolutely “everyone” to unanimously rate this remote resort so highly. Soon after my inauspicious beginning and after experiencing the balance of the resort, I would, like everyone else, fall to the fold. Let me tell you why:

Robinson Crusoe meets Frank Lloyd Wright
   
The first thing you’ll notice about the Post Ranch Inn is the congruous nature of the architecture, I think in their press kit they refer to it as “organic architecture”. When you approach the rooms, you don’t see buildings, well not in the typical sense. And rarely a door or entryway. Architect Mickey Muennig has hidden the rooms stealthily into the hillsides, under the plants, and in the trees. Which is where we found our room, quietly perched in the trees.
   
The Tree House rooms are cleverly designed freestanding modern structures built on post foundations that stand roughly 10 feet off the ground. They are set close enough to the soaring Redwoods to give the illusion (especially from the inside looking out) that they are built in the trees. Swing open the huge metal copper front door at the top of the stairs and the luxury of Post Ranch Inn awaits you.

Architect Muennig either spent months selecting the angles of the windows and the directional positioning of the triangular structure relative to the rising and setting sun and their point-of-view juxtaposition to the bed (kind of like a modern Stonehenge) or it could all have been a serendipitous creation. Whichever, the room captures the essence of living out in nature and the triangular room works brilliantly to create trompe l’oeil window facets that will have you wondering, am I inside or out? The height of the Tree House gives you complete privacy while creating a new visual perspective, much like when Robin William’s character Mr. Keating from the Dead Poet’s Society directed his class to stand on their desks to view life from a different angle.

The interior features rich, Redwood-paneled walls, slate floors, a deep slate whirlpool tub and shower (with windows that open up so you can virtually shower outside), a tall king size bed with comfy luxury linens, a wood-burning fireplace (kindled and ready to go, just add light), and a few comfortable seating areas to lounge and read. The feeling of the space and surfaces is very Zen-like, with an Asian sensibility.

All around are tall Redwoods and views of the Ventana mountains. The sun filters through the trees that encircle the house, gently bathing the space with beautiful variegated light. But what separates the Tree Houses most, from your garden-variety resort suite is the architectural-style that transfers through the pure-form triangular design into perfectly flowing interior spaces. I’m confident Mies van der Rohe would have approved.

In the elegant “details” department are: A single bar of soap neatly wrapped in paper with a simple straw tie, fussily placed in a simple tray, and carefully positioned on the leading edge of the tub; Three black polished meditation stones set atop the fireplace; Reading lamps on either side of the bed with dimmer switches; An “extra” blanket neatly folded and placed on the ottoman to keep cozy; And lastly, lots of windows that wrap around the entire space (and so clean, I swear you’ll wonder the same thing I did, ‘How do they keep these things so clean?’).

The practical aspects of the Tree House include: A fully stocked complimentary mini-bar with plenty of wine, juice, snacks and water (bravo); A coffee maker with fresh cream in a beautiful little Japanese
pot sitting in the fridge; A brilliant DMX satellite stereo that lets you tune
to a streaming variety of musical genres (show tunes anyone?); Thick plush robes to lounge in; Comfy slippers; And, your very own private
patio deck with two Adirondack chairs to enjoy the peaceful serenity
and stunning vistas.
   
Spa Treatments In-Room
I’m used to having my spa treatments, well, in the spa, so when the option of having my facial in the quiet serenity of my own Tree House, along with the DMX satellite radio tuned to “tranquility” presented itself, I welcomed the opportunity. Pauline Sult gently caressed me through a one-hour gentlemen’s facial that included a neck, shoulder, hand, arm and foot massage. And while there weren’t extractions as a part of the facial (I suppose for lack of steam), I still came out glowing from the bonus kneading. Pauline is an esthetician deeply in-touch with her spirit. I knew she could sense the tension in my neck, shoulder and wrists (from my hours on the computer). She worked to soothe those areas with extra care. Her rhythm and pace was deliberate and comforting. She topped off my treatment by adding warm mittens to my hands and feet, making me feel like a baby–safe and warm in my new quiet space. All my cares vanished and I felt in touch with my inner self. If only all facials were filled with so much additional care and pampering.

The Prenatal Massage (A review from a woman’s point-of-view)
Rebecca Felker knows massage. After all, she has 11 years of experience at the Post Ranch Inn on her resume. With table in tow, she made it to our room, bustled about preparing her special prego pads and with a gentle spirit and firm-soothing touch proceeded over the course of the next hour to massage my cares away from head to toe. Her soft voice and slow stroking created a serene spa environment right in my Tree House room. Sean (my son to be) at five months in the womb loved his first massage. The prego padding securely cradled and enveloped my overblown tummy so comfortably that for a time, I forgot I was pregnant. And when my time was up, the beauty of in-room treatments meant that I could just quite literally roll from table to bed and snooze away. Rebecca who counts her talent to live and work in such a beautiful environment as a blessing, enjoys what she does and it shows through her calm and joyful soul.

Billy Post Walking Tour
   
With brand new jeans and a nice pair of hiking boots, bi-focal sunglasses, walking stick and his signature hat, Billy Post was standing right where he always is at 10:20 every morning, in front of the Sierra Mar restaurant. He patiently waits to take whoever’s game, on a two-hour hiking tour of his 93-acre property. As the one who not only conceived the Post Ranch Inn but who, on a handshake with Michael Freed agreed to build this beautiful property, Billy Post is the one essentially responsible for "green-lighting" this blessed space. At 83, Billy has quite a few aches from arthritis, especially in his ankles. He agrees that the everyday walking probably doesn’t do them any good, but he feels he’s got to keep moving. His left ankle was operated on and fused, and now it seems, the other one is due. At his age, Billy is reluctant to go under the knife, not because of the surgery itself, but because of the three months he’s likely to be laid up. Months become more precious at 83.
   
I met Billy Post in front of the Sierra Mar Restaurant about 12 minutes later than his tour was supposed to start, and as he patiently awaited the arrival of more guests, Billy asked if anyone was in a hurry. He’d just as soon wait an hour if it meant everyone who wanted to tour his property, would get the chance. That’s just who he is. He seems to care more about others than himself. Who else would journey the hour, each way, from Carmel Valley where he shares a condo with his lovely wife Luci, of 33 years to take some strangers on a hike? Billy Post loves this place and in a way, sharing it with others has become part of his purpose in life. And speaking for everyone who took the tour, we’re glad it has.
   
For the next three hours we hiked up and around this lovely chunk of land, soaking up about as much about plants and folklore as Martha has recipes. We saw the charred evidence of fires that date back to the 1700’s (probably from lightning) with magnificent live trees jutting out from the damage. We also learned quite a bit about which plants are actually edible. Billy recounted how he’d dazzle his childhood friends with his immunity to poison ivy by actually ingesting the stuff. (I forgot to ask him, what the heck he was thinking, to even try this in the first place).
   
People who work here at the Post Ranch Inn consider Billy Post to be a treasure. Here’s a man whose grandfather grew up in this beautiful part of the state when homesteading was still a possibility–When you could claim a 162-acre parcel, improve the land over the next two years, and then go and claim another 162. All told, his immediate family, uncles and such, came to claim over 1500 acres of prime California ocean front real estate. To give you a brief timeline, Billy’s been around from before there was a road connecting Big Sur
to Monterey and into a time, after some paths were cut, when it took three hours to get there. Billy’s been a part of this land from when it was his responsibility to gather firewood for the family to heat the home and cook the food. And what about his family? He had
four children, sadly one passed away from a rare degenerative brain ailment just last
year, leaving him with three. He also claims rights to seven grandchildren and six great-grandchildren. Other than Billy, no one from the family works at the Post Ranch Inn,
but they still gather here for holidays and when they all do, ironically, Billy has to make reservations to stay in his old home, which is now available to the public as a part of
the Inn.
   
At one point on the tour we passed an antique corn-shucking contraption. Billy explained how it worked and that as a young boy, it was the machine he’d often be working at. Here was a device deserving of being in some historical museum somewhere, just propped up against a fence collecting rust. Then I was struck with the thought that one day, like all of the trees around here, this piece of folklore would outlast all of us.
   
Towards the end of the tour, that led us up some pretty steep inclines, Billy was as cheerful as when we started and I couldn’t help but notice how really grateful everyone was for him to take us on this tour.


Sierra Mar Restaurant
The breakfast at Sierra Mar is complimentary and full of delightful choices. How about having some fresh strawberries and blackberries with granola swimming in a bowl of yogurt. Vegetable or ham frittata. Homemade chicken sausage. A variety of Odwalla juices. Or array of breads, pastries and cereals. Eat inside or eat outside on the large patio overlooking the ocean where you can take a peek through the powerful monocular at some whales swimming by. Breakfast at the Post Ranch Inn is really one of life’s special treats. A note of warning sits on the table to keep an eye on your food when going in for an extra napkin; those Stellar Jays delight in Sierra Mar’s morning fare as well.

Dinner at Sierra Mar is worth the trip to the Post Ranch Inn. The décor is comfortable and simple in a multi-level, glass-enclosed space that plays second fiddle to the jaw-dropping views of the deep blue majestic ocean, 1100 feet below. Fog permitting, there’s also a beautiful sunset that plays every evening and after dinner, right out on the patio, you can join other “star gazers” and look through the eye of their powerful telescope to enjoy viewing different color stars and planets.

The delicately drawn pre-fixe menu $73. satisfies everyone’s taste. Let’s start with the tasty Seared Foie Gras with Port-Candied Grapes and Shallot Jam. For my second course I’ll have the White Bean Crostini with Wild Arugula, Proscuitto and Truffle Vinaigrette. For the main course, I’ll try the Teriyaki Glazed New York Steak with Spring Roll and Peanut Dipping Sauce. And for dessert, the yummy Chocolate Canache Terrine with Bruleed Banana and Coconut Sorbet with coffee. And while I’m too stuffed to go on, why don’t you just bring out the Apres Dessert, Petits Fours. At least I can look.

Or what about this combination: The delicious Soft Shell Crab “Po-Boy” with Frisee and Cherry Tomatoes. Organic Earthbound Farms Watercress with Blackberries, Lavender and Goat Cheese. Alaskan Halibut with Gremolata, Chorizo and Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes. For dessert the Strawberry Tart with Basil Ice Cream. And that’s just the first night. Remember that each night at Sierra Mar means a completely different Pre-Fixe menu selection.
Oh, and the wine list, 4000 selections strong pulled from a wine cellar 20,000 bottles deep. This is a first class restaurant dropped in the middle of nowhere.

The Post Ranch Inn’s Style Points: The architectural style. The complimentary mini-bar filled with delightful snacks, wine, juice and water. The views. The whirlpool soaking tub that opens to the outside. The clean windows that make you feel one with nature. The cushy robes. The soap wrapped in a single straw string. The wood-burning fireplace “pre-kindled” and ready to light each night of your stay. The decision not to have televisions. Great DMX satellite stereo system. The comfortable mattress and linens. The friendly and accommodating staff. No wide-band access for my laptop. My Cingular cell phone doesn’t work here.

No-Style Points: The height of the tub makes it a little dicey to get in and out of. No wide-band access for my laptop. My Cingular cell phone doesn’t work here.

And lastly.

There are three places I’ve found that accelerate your ability to get centered and move you towards getting in touch with your spiritual side: Caneel Bay on the Virgin Islands, Koele Lodge on the Island of Lanai, and the Post Ranch Inn at Big Sur, California. I’m changing in my sensibilities toward luxury resort properties. Now, it’s more a matter of, as the Post Ranch Inn’s Soaring Starkey says, ‘a time for decompressing and regenerating’. I’m also going to miss Billy Post, the grandfatherly man, who agreed on a handshake to make this whole wonderful luxury resort 11 years ago. He affected my life this weekend in a profound way. I see in him, a simple man secure and content, with the blessed life God has given him. A life whose purpose it is to take care of people and let them see a part of his past. Billy I wish you well on your remaining years. I predict you’ll make it past 100 and that after all is said and done, you’ll have impacted the lives of thousands of people through your graciousness and generosity. Thank you.


Stephen Kamifuji
Style Director