The
Post Ranch Inn
Tree House Room $695.
On numerous occasions Id wanted to, but never made the
winding drive from Los Angeles to Big Sur along California
coast's Hiway 1, so when the opportunity to review the Post
Ranch Inn arose, it was the perfect opportunity to load the
Rover and take in the Golden State.
The drive was truly unbelievable. The wildflowers overflowed
onto the winding road and the grasses that clung to the hillsides
were still green from the spring rains. The ocean is a deep,
deep blue and there are things I didnt know existed
in California like black sand beaches, waterfalls, and close
to the famous Hearst Castle, strips of the beach devoted to
literally thousands of elephant seals. What a sight it was
to see the entire beach covered with all of these huge sea
creatures, snuggling up to each other, basking in the sun.
As one admittedly jaded by mans luxury creations - architecture,
art, fashion, and automobiles - it was refreshing to feel
excited by what God has done for us. I felt spiritually recharged
by this road trip.
The Post Ranch Inn
As the primary researcher for the luxury properties The Style
Group chooses to review, I was familiar with all of the accolades
bestowed upon the Post Ranch Inn. Kudos extended on the short
list include: #1 Top Hotel in North America and tied
for #1 Top Hotel for The Best of The Best in the
Worldon the Conde Nast Traveler Readers Choice
Awards for Best Overall of the World Resorts, Hotels, Cruise
Lines and Islands; and Travel + Leisure's #1 small hotel
in the U.S. and selected as their #3 hotel with a spa
in the U.S.Some pretty powerful testimonials.
With cachet, come expectations, so when the winding driveway
that leads to the hotel from the main highway led us to a
rather simple, lackluster reception building, I was disappointed.
Not only that, but I was dumbfounded by the lack of signage
to clearly direct us to the check-in area. I asked two guests
of the hotel for directions to the reception area before finding
it. The lobby is not luxurious by any means and the greeting
is laid-back and again, simple. We quickly checked in and
without much fanfare or any kind of orientation, loaded into
a pretty chic shuttle, a brand-new Lexus RX300 that careened
up a steep road to our room, a Tree House named Brazil.
I admit I had my critics hat on when I came here.
After all, this had to be one impeccable property for absolutely
everyone to unanimously rate this remote resort
so highly. Soon after my inauspicious beginning and after
experiencing the balance of the resort, I would, like everyone
else, fall to the fold. Let me tell you why:
Robinson Crusoe meets Frank Lloyd Wright
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The first thing youll
notice about the Post Ranch Inn is the congruous nature
of the architecture, I think in their press kit they
refer to it as organic architecture. When
you approach the rooms, you dont see buildings,
well not in the typical sense. And rarely a door or
entryway. Architect Mickey Muennig has hidden the rooms
stealthily into the hillsides, under the plants, and
in the trees. Which is where we found our room, quietly
perched in the trees. |
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The Tree House rooms are cleverly designed freestanding modern
structures built on post foundations that stand roughly 10
feet off the ground. They are set close enough to the soaring
Redwoods to give the illusion (especially from the inside
looking out) that they are built in the trees. Swing open
the huge metal copper front door at the top of the stairs
and the luxury of Post Ranch Inn awaits you.
Architect Muennig either spent months selecting the angles
of the windows and the directional positioning of the triangular
structure relative to the rising and setting sun and their
point-of-view juxtaposition to the bed (kind of like a modern
Stonehenge) or it could all have been a serendipitous creation.
Whichever, the room captures the essence of living out in
nature and the triangular room works brilliantly to create
trompe loeil window facets that will have you wondering,
am I inside or out? The height of the Tree House gives you
complete privacy while creating a new visual perspective,
much like when Robin Williams character Mr. Keating
from the Dead Poets Society directed his class to
stand on their desks to view life from a different angle.
The interior features rich, Redwood-paneled walls, slate
floors, a deep slate whirlpool tub and shower (with windows
that open up so you can virtually shower outside), a tall
king size bed with comfy luxury linens, a wood-burning fireplace
(kindled and ready to go, just add light), and a few comfortable
seating areas to lounge and read. The feeling of the space
and surfaces is very Zen-like, with an Asian sensibility.
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All around are tall Redwoods
and views of the Ventana mountains. The sun filters
through the trees that encircle the house, gently bathing
the space with beautiful variegated light. But what
separates the Tree Houses most, from your garden-variety
resort suite is the architectural-style that transfers
through the pure-form triangular design into perfectly
flowing interior spaces. Im confident Mies van
der Rohe would have approved. |
In the elegant details department are: A single
bar of soap neatly wrapped in paper with a simple straw tie,
fussily placed in a simple tray, and carefully positioned
on the leading edge of the tub; Three black polished meditation
stones set atop the fireplace; Reading lamps on either side
of the bed with dimmer switches; An extra blanket
neatly folded and placed on the ottoman to keep cozy; And
lastly, lots of windows that wrap around the entire space
(and so clean, I swear youll wonder the same thing I
did, How do they keep these things so clean?).
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The practical aspects
of the Tree House include: A fully stocked complimentary
mini-bar with plenty of wine, juice, snacks and water
(bravo); A coffee maker with fresh cream in a beautiful
little Japanese
pot sitting in the fridge; A brilliant DMX satellite
stereo that lets you tune
to a streaming variety of musical genres (show tunes
anyone?); Thick plush robes to lounge in; Comfy slippers;
And, your very own private
patio deck with two Adirondack chairs to enjoy the peaceful
serenity
and stunning vistas. |
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Spa Treatments In-Room
Im used to having my spa treatments, well, in the spa,
so when the option of having my facial in the quiet serenity
of my own Tree House, along with the DMX satellite radio tuned
to tranquility presented itself, I welcomed the
opportunity. Pauline Sult gently caressed me through a one-hour
gentlemens facial that included a neck, shoulder, hand,
arm and foot massage. And while there werent extractions
as a part of the facial (I suppose for lack of steam), I still
came out glowing from the bonus kneading. Pauline is an esthetician
deeply in-touch with her spirit. I knew she could sense the
tension in my neck, shoulder and wrists (from my hours on
the computer). She worked to soothe those areas with extra
care. Her rhythm and pace was deliberate and comforting. She
topped off my treatment by adding warm mittens to my hands
and feet, making me feel like a babysafe and warm in
my new quiet space. All my cares vanished and I felt in touch
with my inner self. If only all facials were filled with so
much additional care and pampering.
The Prenatal Massage (A review from a womans point-of-view)
Rebecca Felker knows massage. After all, she has 11 years
of experience at the Post Ranch Inn on her resume. With table
in tow, she made it to our room, bustled about preparing her
special prego pads and with a gentle spirit and firm-soothing
touch proceeded over the course of the next hour to massage
my cares away from head to toe. Her soft voice and slow stroking
created a serene spa environment right in my Tree House room.
Sean (my son to be) at five months in the womb loved his first
massage. The prego padding securely cradled and enveloped
my overblown tummy so comfortably that for a time, I forgot
I was pregnant. And when my time was up, the beauty of in-room
treatments meant that I could just quite literally roll from
table to bed and snooze away. Rebecca who counts her talent
to live and work in such a beautiful environment as a blessing,
enjoys what she does and it shows through her calm and joyful
soul.
Billy Post Walking Tour
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With brand new jeans
and a nice pair of hiking boots, bi-focal sunglasses,
walking stick and his signature hat, Billy Post was
standing right where he always is at 10:20 every morning,
in front of the Sierra Mar restaurant. He patiently
waits to take whoevers game, on a two-hour hiking
tour of his 93-acre property. As the one who not only
conceived the Post Ranch Inn but who, on a handshake
with Michael Freed agreed to build this beautiful property,
Billy Post is the one essentially responsible for "green-lighting"
this blessed space. At 83, Billy has quite a few aches
from arthritis, especially in his ankles. He agrees
that the everyday walking probably doesnt do them
any good, but he feels hes got to keep moving.
His left ankle was operated on and fused, and now it
seems, the other one is due. At his age, Billy is reluctant
to go under the knife, not because of the surgery itself,
but because of the three months hes likely to
be laid up. Months become more precious at 83. |
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I met Billy Post in front of the Sierra Mar Restaurant about
12 minutes later than his tour was supposed to start, and
as he patiently awaited the arrival of more guests, Billy
asked if anyone was in a hurry. Hed just as soon wait
an hour if it meant everyone who wanted to tour his property,
would get the chance. Thats just who he is. He seems
to care more about others than himself. Who else would journey
the hour, each way, from Carmel Valley where he shares a condo
with his lovely wife Luci, of 33 years to take some strangers
on a hike? Billy Post loves this place and in a way, sharing
it with others has become part of his purpose in life. And
speaking for everyone who took the tour, were glad it
has.
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For the next three hours we hiked
up and around this lovely chunk of land, soaking up
about as much about plants and folklore as Martha has
recipes. We saw the charred evidence of fires that date
back to the 1700s (probably from lightning) with
magnificent live trees jutting out from the damage.
We also learned quite a bit about which plants are actually
edible. Billy recounted how hed dazzle his childhood
friends with his immunity to poison ivy by actually
ingesting the stuff. (I forgot to ask him, what the
heck he was thinking, to even try this in the first
place). |
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People who work here at the Post Ranch Inn consider Billy
Post to be a treasure. Heres a man whose grandfather
grew up in this beautiful part of the state when homesteading
was still a possibilityWhen you could claim a 162-acre
parcel, improve the land over the next two years, and then
go and claim another 162. All told, his immediate family,
uncles and such, came to claim over 1500 acres of prime California
ocean front real estate. To give you a brief timeline, Billys
been around from before there was a road connecting Big Sur
to Monterey and into a time, after some paths were cut, when
it took three hours to get there. Billys been a part
of this land from when it was his responsibility to gather
firewood for the family to heat the home and cook the food.
And what about his family? He had
four children, sadly one passed away from a rare degenerative
brain ailment just last
year, leaving him with three. He also claims rights to seven
grandchildren and six great-grandchildren. Other than Billy,
no one from the family works at the Post Ranch Inn,
but they still gather here for holidays and when they all
do, ironically, Billy has to make reservations to stay in
his old home, which is now available to the public as a part
of
the Inn.
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At one point on the tour we passed
an antique corn-shucking contraption. Billy explained
how it worked and that as a young boy, it was the machine
hed often be working at. Here was a device deserving
of being in some historical museum somewhere, just propped
up against a fence collecting rust. Then I was struck
with the thought that one day, like all of the trees
around here, this piece of folklore would outlast all
of us. |
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Towards the end of the tour, that led us up some pretty steep
inclines, Billy was as cheerful as when we started and I couldnt
help but notice how really grateful everyone was for him to
take us on this tour.
Sierra Mar Restaurant
The breakfast at Sierra Mar is complimentary and full of
delightful choices. How about having some fresh strawberries
and blackberries with granola swimming in a bowl of yogurt.
Vegetable or ham frittata. Homemade chicken sausage. A variety
of Odwalla juices. Or array of breads, pastries and cereals.
Eat inside or eat outside on the large patio overlooking
the ocean where you can take a peek through the powerful
monocular at some whales swimming by. Breakfast at the Post
Ranch Inn is really one of lifes special treats. A
note of warning sits on the table to keep an eye on your
food when going in for an extra napkin; those Stellar Jays
delight in Sierra Mars morning fare as well.
Dinner at Sierra Mar is worth the trip to the Post Ranch
Inn. The décor is comfortable and simple in a multi-level,
glass-enclosed space that plays second fiddle to the jaw-dropping
views of the deep blue majestic ocean, 1100 feet below.
Fog permitting, theres also a beautiful sunset that
plays every evening and after dinner, right out on the patio,
you can join other star gazers and look through
the eye of their powerful telescope to enjoy viewing different
color stars and planets.
The delicately drawn pre-fixe menu $73. satisfies everyones
taste. Lets start with the tasty Seared Foie Gras
with Port-Candied Grapes and Shallot Jam. For my second
course Ill have the White Bean Crostini with Wild
Arugula, Proscuitto and Truffle Vinaigrette. For the main
course, Ill try the Teriyaki Glazed New York Steak
with Spring Roll and Peanut Dipping Sauce. And for dessert,
the yummy Chocolate Canache Terrine with Bruleed Banana
and Coconut Sorbet with coffee. And while Im too stuffed
to go on, why dont you just bring out the Apres Dessert,
Petits Fours. At least I can look.
Or what about this combination: The delicious Soft Shell
Crab Po-Boy with Frisee and Cherry Tomatoes.
Organic Earthbound Farms Watercress with Blackberries, Lavender
and Goat Cheese. Alaskan Halibut with Gremolata, Chorizo
and Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes. For dessert the Strawberry
Tart with Basil Ice Cream. And thats just the first
night. Remember that each night at Sierra Mar means a completely
different Pre-Fixe menu selection.
Oh, and the wine list, 4000 selections strong pulled from
a wine cellar 20,000 bottles deep. This is a first class
restaurant dropped in the middle of nowhere.
The Post Ranch Inns Style Points: The architectural
style. The complimentary mini-bar filled with delightful
snacks, wine, juice and water. The views. The whirlpool
soaking tub that opens to the outside. The clean windows
that make you feel one with nature. The cushy robes. The
soap wrapped in a single straw string. The wood-burning
fireplace pre-kindled and ready to light each
night of your stay. The decision not to have televisions.
Great DMX satellite stereo system. The comfortable mattress
and linens. The friendly and accommodating staff. No wide-band
access for my laptop. My Cingular cell phone doesnt
work here.
No-Style Points: The height of the tub makes it a
little dicey to get in and out of. No wide-band access for
my laptop. My Cingular cell phone doesnt work here.
And lastly.
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There are three places
Ive found that accelerate your ability to get
centered and move you towards getting in touch with
your spiritual side: Caneel Bay on the Virgin Islands,
Koele Lodge on the Island of Lanai, and the Post Ranch
Inn at Big Sur, California. Im changing in my
sensibilities toward luxury resort properties. Now,
its more a matter of, as the Post Ranch Inns
Soaring Starkey says, a time for decompressing
and regenerating. Im also going to miss
Billy Post, the grandfatherly man, who agreed on a handshake
to make this whole wonderful luxury resort 11 years
ago. He affected my life this weekend in a profound
way. I see in him, a simple man secure and content,
with the blessed life God has given him. A life whose
purpose it is to take care of people and let them see
a part of his past. Billy I wish you well on your remaining
years. I predict youll make it past 100 and that
after all is said and done, youll have impacted
the lives of thousands of people through your graciousness
and generosity. Thank you. |
Stephen Kamifuji
Style Director
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