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The Lodge at Torrey Pines
La Jolla
The Thorsen Room - $2200. Per night
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Bill Evans is passionate and a slightly obsessive
man. He's an artist whose medium is the early 1900s
Craftsman-style of architecture. His latest creation,
The Lodge at Torrey Pines, is his tribute to this
architectural style and to his pursuit of a coveted
great hotel status. Consider this one
fact alone; The Lodge at Torrey Pines is the first
hotel EVER to open with the AAA five-diamond standing.
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During my interview
with Bill Evans in the lobby of his Lodge on Christmas
Eve, I watch as his obsessive side comes out. He stares
intently as the electric toy train set that circles
the vintage, 18-foot tall Christmas tree makes its way
around the base and then suddenly grinds to a dead stop.
An uncomfortable amount of time passes and I wonder
for a moment if hes reflecting on his youth, born
into the hotel business of parents whose first hotel
property was the Bahia Hotel, built here on the shores
of San Diego in 1952. He snaps from the stare muttering
how "its things like this" that really gets
him. Evans doesnt like to be the one to discover
"problems" at the Lodge (he believes theres
enough staff here to find them before he does). He breaks
the silence, Let me give you an example. Youre
entertaining people at your home, your wife has put
bread in the oven. Suddenly you hear the oven timer
go off. Do you ignore it? Or do you take
responsibility, I say, feeling the momentum of
his question. No, its not a matter of responsibility",
Evans continues, completely deflating my contribution,
Its an opportunity to solve the problem.
What a gem to pass on to my son I think to myself-opportunity
over responsibility. Beautiful!
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Evans has seized
every opportunity to ensure that his Lodge at Torrey
Pines maintains its stylistic dedication to the Greene
and Greene style of architecture that lit up California
and then went out like a flash fire: On in 1906; Done
in 1910. Evans speaks of it even more intimately, Were
talking about a specific style between 6 and 10, thats
it.
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Of the Lodge at Torrey Pines authenticity,
Evans expresses it like a painter hurling gobs of
oil on his canvasin a one-breath flurry of finger
pointing around the Lodges stunning lobby, See
those chairs over there? Blacker house chairs. And
those. Those are from the Charles Pratt house in Ojai.
And those? Once designed for Mr. Gambles bedroom.
Never got made, but we took the blueprints and had
them made. That paneling is seven layers of wood to
the exact proportions within one sixteenth of an inch
of the original specs to achieve the proper shadowing.
Everything is authentic. All of the fixtures are bronze.
Nothings fake. There are no veneers. If you
see a rock, its a rock. A beam-its solid-theres
no air inside. See this floor? We assembled it in
a warehouse-distressed it completely-disassembled
it-and then installed it here.
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Bill
Evans is also enthusiastic over the recent cult-like
resurgence of appreciation for this blip in California
architectural history. Evans gloats, Did you know
that a Greene and Greene chair was estimated to go at
auction for $180,000. It sold for $675,000!
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The Lodge at Torrey Pines staff is warm and
pretty well knowledgeable of the hotels architectural
heritage and pedigree. I comment to Evans about the
exemplary service and he spouts the Evans Hotel Group
philosophy. We dont thrive on the construction.
We're boring. Its not the construction that
excites us. Its making our hotels better. The
measure of a hotel is its service and the training
of its employees. If there are 100 5-Diamond hotels,
then there has to be the best of the 5-Diamond hotels.
Thats what we can strive for. Everything in
hotels is perspective understanding our guests
needs from their perspective. I send our management
team out to other top hotels to experience good service.
To gain a perspective of what service is about because
guests remember the consistency of service, long after
the aesthetics of the hotel are gone.
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On the subject
of what he looks for in his employees, Evans has a simple
solution: Its not important to hire people
with hospitality experience, its important to
hire people who know how to be hospitable. The bottom
line is this, at the end of the day, would I want to
go and have beer and pizza with this person?
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When I mention
the few negative points (read below) that I found, Bill
Evans graciously welcomes the comments as opportunity.
Evans remarks, Would a beautiful woman get more
out of you telling her shes beautiful, like everyone
else does, or that she has toilet paper stuck to her
shoe? Its humble thinking like this that
only makes a person, or a hotel, better.
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The Lodge at Torrey Pines
The day after my interview with Bill Evans, the owner
of the Lodge at Torrey Pines, I surfed the net to do
a little obsessing of my own about the Greene and Greene
architectureI couldnt put my mouse down.
There they wereall of the infinite details of
the famous houses that the Lodge at Torrey Pines imitates
in down to the clinker stone detail: The
Blacker house; The Pratt House; The Gamble houseliving
examples of the early American Craftsman style of designcousin
of the Arts and Crafts movement. In Berkeley, Charles
and his brother Henry Greene also designed the William
Thorsen house. It was after this famed home that our
accommodations at the Lodge at Torrey Pines were named,
The Thorsen Room.
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The Thorsen Room: A-
A heavy, dark wooden front door adjacent to the brass
doorbell and warm foyer entrance welcomes travelers
into the wonderful Thorsen Rooma junior suite
designed in an economy of space but not of style.
It features a handsome mix of authentically Craftsman
detailed tables, chairs (both for sitting and lounging),
couches and consolesall placed within a pleasing
palette of sage and green. Theres a well-placed
seating group around the glowing fireplace (flip-of-a-switch
type), a handsome desk to sit my laptop on, and a
high-speed Internet outlet to plug into. On the occasion
of our stay, Let is Snow, White Christmas and other
holiday songs waft cheerfully, courtesy of the Bose®
wave radio/CD player.
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Bill Evans recreated one of the more notable G and
G architectural features just outside the rear French
doorsa huge deck with outdoor fireplace and
enough girth to sleep a family of five. Back in the
day, it was believed that the therapeutic effects
of the night ocean air would best be provided snoozing
al fresco, so the large porches served as outdoor
bedrooms. The beauty of this particular wraparound
porch, is its unencumbered second floor
view, save for one annoying tree, of the 18th green
of the Torrey Pines Golf Course. It also offers views
of the Pacific Ocean in the distance, a croquet court,
pool, and a splendid panoramic "photo op"
of the Lodges back. The Thorsen Room will undoubtedly
be the most sought after accommodations for viewing
the 2008 U.S. Open, but hold on tiger. The Thorsen
Room is among several suites that a certain Mr. Woods
snares when hes in town for tournaments.
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Lighting and Details: A-
Suddenly it struck me that the ceiling heights are
only (though I suppose for Craftsman-style authenticity)
the standard 8-foot height. Fortunately they appear
optically higher courtesy of the handsome, double
Brazilian cherry wood crown moldings - 5.5-inch by
1-inch - separated by another 6 inches - that top
the walls. Add to this visual expanse some dimmer-switched,
indirect ceiling cans and dramatic spotlights that
pour onto a glorious offering of colorful original
oils.
Safe to say, Evans had his hand in all of the details.
During our meeting, I begin describing a stained glass
Tiffany-type table lamp with 5 tulip lamps sprouting
from the base that nearly burned my hand when I reached
for the chain-pull switch (Opportunity/solution: put
lighter wattage bulbs in lamp). Evans stops me mid
sentence and finishes describing the lamp to me. He
tells me there are only two of those lamps on the
entire property and names them by number. He also
mentions he spent 7 years making sure every detail
of every room was perfect and boasts and I believe
him that he can close his eyes and fly through
every inch of every room at the Lodge.
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The suite is highlighted by a collection of these
Tiffany-style stained glass lamps. The rear porch
glows warmly courtesy of yet another fireplace. One
welcome addition to the landscapes lighting
scheme might be illumination of the18th green.
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The Bed: A
The heavy wooden bed sits tall and is drenched in
heavenly linens. Waiting patiently, neatly draped
across the bed, is a wonderful cotton robe and a matching
pair of slippers nestled on a pure white cloth square.
On the robes, Bill Evans comments, I remember
my grandmother having the most comfortable, loosely
woven blanketso I wanted our robes to be as
nice. They arent your typical terry cloth robes.
Theyre special. I agree. The robes and
the slippers are as fashionable, as they are cozy
and comfortable. Flanking the bed are conveniently
located light switches to control the reading lights
that help your novel-of-the-week come alive. Bravo!
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The Thorsen Room Bathroom One of The Style
Groups Top 10 Best Luxury Hotel Bathrooms: A+
The bathroom is spectacular! A long galley-styled
number with a stunning, double-sink, marble vanity,
separate water closet with heavy door, and a large
shower in the first half; followed by a secluded marble
filled room with wonderful fireplace, an eight-jet
Kohler whirlpool tub to soak in and a nicely padded
seating area to lounge on. Spanning the length of
the bathroom is a beautiful, intricately crafted,
basket-weave tile floor. Sitting by the tub are tall,
inviting stacks of plush white towels. Sparkling Kohler
fixtures and an authentic Greene and Greene stained-glass
window finish off this striking bathroom.
I mention to Bill Evans the two minor negatives
I found in the bathroom: It takes the hot water a
tad too long to reach the sinks and shower; and the
caps of the shampoo and conditioner bottles were hard
to open. Which leads to a pretty lengthy discussion
about the bottles (Evans beautiful obsession
continues). I picked those bottles for their
apothecary look. There are no bottles here that youll
find in other hotels. All are chosen and made for
the Lodge only. The ingredients of the products
are as lavish as the packaging: A lemongrass and sage
shower gel and body lotion and a rosemary and sage
shampoo and conditioner. Opportunity, remember? Have
staff crack bottles open once first, prior to placing
in rooms.
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Dining at the Lodge at Torrey Pines: A+
Coming in during holiday traffic, we arrived too late
to have dinner at A.R. Valentien, the restaurant named
by Esquire magazine as one of Americas best
new restaurants. So we missed having a fine dining
experience. But, what we did have was equally spectacular.
We consumed the best assortment of room service meals
weve ever had. And, absolutely the best room
service.
Dinner: Fare: A Service: A+
The room service dinner menu, that called our name
as we stepped in the door at 8:00, had oodles of savory
options. Equal to the gracious Tiffany - on the other
end of the room service order line - was her call
at 8:17 that our food was expedited and ready, should
we wish to have it sent up. And so it was wished.
Two well-mannered and smiling wait staff roll in at
8:21 with: Appetizers: Caesar Salad; Dungeness Crab
Cake, with red pepper sauce and layered Cole slaw;
the most wonderfully rich Boston Clam Chowder with
smoked bacon, potatoes and cream. Main Courses: A
tender Grilled Rib Eye Steak with Sautéed Spinach,
Blue Cheese Skillet Potatoes; Roasted Half Chicken
with Mashed Potatoes and Braised Greens; and for Desserts:
Warm Risotto Pudding with Raisins and Vanilla and
a Warm Apple Fruit Crisp á La Mode. My question
is this: How did they make all of this truly wonderful
food in just minutes?
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Breakfast (times 2): Fare: A+ Service: A+
Good morning. Shall we dive into a little morning
fare? Well kindly have some decaf coffee with
cream; Freshly squeezed strawberry /orange juice and
a plain orange juice; French Toast; Corned Beef Hash
and Poached Eggs; and some Applewood Smoked Bacon.
Oh and a side of sour dough toast, please. Within
13 minutes the phone rings with the familiar voice
on the other end with the good news that our breakfast
is ready and willing if we are. Send it up! Everything
about this breakfast was delicious with a special
note: the Corned Beef Hash and Poached Eggs were as
good as the best Ive found at believe it or
not, the Raffles Hotel in Singapore!
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The Torrey
Pines Spa: A
While the spouse is out chasing birdies and eagles on
the famed Torrey Pines links for four+ hours, you can
enjoy one of The Style Groups Top 10 Best California
Hotel Spas! Darcie Debartelo, Spa Director, has undoubtedly
poured her heart into the Feng Shui designed Spacreating
calm into this adequately sized 9,500 square foot temple.
It maintains the Arts & Crafts architectural design
principles of the Lodge with tall-backed Charles Rennie
Mackintosh chairs and uses a primarily white against
earth tone palette.
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A pleasant attendant whisks me away for a quick tour
of the impressive amenities: We start at the small
shop that sells their wonderful proprietary line of
shampoos and conditioners; go through the separate
mens and womens locker rooms each
maxed out with essentials; into the herbal-infused
steam rooms; saunas, aromatherapy inhalation rooms
and end up at the 14 private treatment rooms. Tour
over, let the games begin: I start with a shower using
their wonderful lemongrass and lavender bathing products.
Next, Im in the steam room where I can only
handle 6 minutes before needing to down some of their
ice-cold lemon cucumber water. I muster some steam
of my own and crawl into the inhalation room where
the permeating scent of Lavender fills the air for
a few minutes of meditation. Lastly I partake of the
wonderful sauna just before receiving a body melting
80-minute Swedish massage under the strong, comforting
hands of Karleen who infused a few different techniques
including Thai and deep tissue into my Swedish selection.
I also went with an 80-minute Deep Cleansing Sea Mud
Facial. Esthetician Lindsey worked wonders on my clogged
dehydrated skin. This two-mask facial not only detoxifies
but also is extremely soothing and left my face feeling
hydrated and glowing. Bottom line: Soothing products;
Comforting treatments; Calming music; Tranquil ambience.
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Just across the hall from the Spa is a Cardio/Strength
room that features treadmills, climbers and bikes
facing huge plasma screen sets. Or if outdoor fitness
is your thing, youll find yoga, Pilates, Tai
Chi and stretching classes outside on the Arroyo Terrace,
a grassy stretch that overlooks the golf course and
Pacific Ocean. A grand-scale pool and vanishing-edge
whirlpool are available year-round in the temperate
climate, and daily private and group hikes are available
through the Torrey Pines State Reserve.
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And lastly.
Bravo Mr. Evans on your Lodge at Torrey Pines! Proof
that vision + dedication + service can add up to living
art that truly rewards its guests. Add The Lodge at
Torrey Pines to our list of Best Luxury Hotels of CaliforniaA
hidden gem in a quaint community that offers so many
wonderful activities. Golfers will enjoy getting a round
in at the world-class Torrey Pines Golf Course; students
of architecture and design will appreciate the Lodge
for its authentic Craftsman style attributes and beauty;
and serenity seekers will find the Spa at Torrey Pines
exceptionally soothing. While I dont usually agree
with the AAA 5-Diamond picks, I am certainly in agreement
with them on this one!
Stephen Kamifuji
Style Director |
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